Water has always been a big part of my life. When I was little my dad built a pool in our backyard. And he taught me and my sister how to swim. And a few years later I learned how to surf. And since then I have basically lived on the beach and in the water. It’s ironic really. My favorite part about surfing is paddling out as far as you dare to go and then turning and staring at where the water meets the horizon. And then I’d just sit and stare out letting my mind go numb.